In today's wine world, too many superb wines slip past the net
Matt Kramer
Posted: July 21, 2015
Posted: July 21, 2015
You would think that in our we're-all-connected-now world that no
wine of any real quality could go unnoticed or unappreciated. Yet it's
not so. A variety of reasons contribute to a lack of recognition. This is worth exploring briefly, if only to underscore that although
we feel like we're deluged with wines from everywhere, the fact is that
many of the world's most interesting wines don't reach our shores (or
those other nations either). Wines or wine districts often go unrecognized or are underrated
because the wines simply aren't exported or, more common yet, the best
wines of the zone never get sent. Many Europeans, for example, are puzzled by the hoopla over
California, Oregon and Washington wines. Why? Because the best examples
from those locales never reach European markets. Indeed, some of the
very best wines never leave their home state or even, thanks to
direct-to-consumer winery mailing lists, reach the conventional stream
of commerce even locally. Sometimes wines are underrated or unrecognized because of changing
tastes. This is particularly true for sweet wines such as Sauternes,
Tokaji and Loire Valley districts such as Quarts de Chaume and
Bonnezeaux. Finally, there's the element of fashion. In the same way that there's
no accounting for taste, neither is it easy to explain the vagaries of
fashion either. For example, Riesling was hugely popular among American wine drinkers
in the 1970s—and not just the ones seeking a simple, cheap sweet swill,
either. A decade later it plummeted out of fashion and has never
recovered in either popular esteem or sales. There's no rational
explanation for this, except to point to fashion. All that noted, allow me to nominate what I, anyway, consider the
World's Three Greatest Underrated Wines, 2015 edition. I emphasize the
element of an annual submission because A) I'd like to revisit this
topic regularly as there are a lot of worthy contenders and B) because,
thankfully, the aforementioned fortunes of fashion do change. Wines that
once went unrecognized or underrated are now the new darlings. Think
Grüner Veltliner, cru Beaujolais or, most recently of all, Douro table wines, to name but three.
1. Hunter Valley Sémillon. I will happily declare that the world's greatest unrecognized dry white wine today is Hunter Valley Sémillon. How unrecognized is it? When I lived in Melbourne, it was next to
impossible to find any. This was not because of limited supply but
rather, because for reasons that are incomprehensible, Melbourne's wine
drinkers (they are both legion and thirsty) don't care for it. When I asked Hunter Valley producers why they don't promote their
extraordinary Sémillon in Melbourne their reply was, "We don't bother
any more with Melbourne. They don't like our Sémillon." The American in
me was boggled. I mean, Australia only has two really big urban markets.
And this is their home market, never mind trying to make inroads in the
United States, Asia or Europe. How unique is Hunter Valley Sémillon? Consider this: Hunter Valley is
a very warm winegrowing zone that's a three-hour drive north of Sydney.
(Substitute a "three-hour drive south of Los Angeles" and you'll get
the idea.) Yet Hunter Valley Sémillon is rarely more than 11 percent alcohol,
delivers a wonderfully crisp natural acidity and yet, even though
harvested very early—which explains the low alcohol and bright
acidity—the grapes are fully ripe in flavor development. (The fancy term
for this is phenologically ripe.) This makes no sense. Yet it's so. When young, Hunter Valley Sémillon is disappointing. It seems thin,
acidic and flavorless. Yet after a decade of age it blossoms into an
astounding dry white wine proffering an eye-pleasing pale green tint and
a scent and taste suffused with minerality and resonant with a lemon
curd note. The greatest examples, such as Tyrrell's Vat 1 Sémillon, McWilliams Mount Pleasant Lovedale Sémillon and Brokenwood ILR Reserve Sémillon, are comparable to grand cru
Chablis—and that's not a name I take lightly or in vain. Yet the world
sails serenely by, missing out on this singular dry white wine.
2. Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra Mencía. I have yet to meet a Pinot
Noir lover who hasn't fallen in love with Spain's Mencía grape. The
motherhouse of this red variety are two separate zones in northwest
Spain, Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra. Both were cultivated by Cistercian monks, which calls to mind the
observation made by Arthur Young (about Burgundy's Cistercian-created
Clos de Vougeot) in his 1792 book Travels in France: "When are we to find these fellows choosing badly?" When indeed. Both Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra specialize in the Mencía grape,
although not exclusively so. And each district delivers a different
version, with Bierzo's wines being collectively richer and more burly,
with Ribeira Sacra's version more stony/minerally, with a greater sense
of delicacy. These are generalizations to be sure, but defensible ones, I
think. In Bierzo, you have such stellar producers as Raúl Pérez, who offers an array of single-vineyard wines, Losada Vinos de Finca and Descendientes de J. Palacios,
among others. (The latter two producers lavish their wines with too
much oak for my taste, but the underlying fruit is superb.) Ribeira Sacra, for its part, boasts stellar producers such as Dominio
do Bibei and Guímaro, who are easily my two favorites. Raúl Péréz, more
closely associated with Bierzo, also creates wines from Ribeira Sacra.
Another top name is D. Ventura. For some reason, Ribeira Sacra producers seem more restrained in
their use of oak than their neighbors in Bierzo, perhaps because the
richer, more-structured Mencía wine from Bierzo seems better-structured
to handle more oak, which is certainly an understandable premise. More important is what both districts have in common, which are
superbly defined red wines filled with a scent and flavor that many
tasters (me included) describe as "slate"; supple tannins; refreshing
acidity; and a perfuminess that sends Pinot Noir lovers into a swoon. If
there's a problem it's that some producers are using too much new oak.
But they'll grow out of that. Mencía from both Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra is one of the modern
world's red wine wonders, capable of taking on all comers in flavor
distinction and originality.
3. Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. The rap on Loire Valley
Cabernet Franc is a kind of "throws like a girl" smear, namely that
Loire Cab Franc is too "green." This is a smear because the tasters who
assert this are the sorts who prefer overripe Cabernet Sauvignon and
look constantly for "cassis" in their Cabernet and also because the past
decade's worth of Loire Cabernet Franc is collectively different from
older versions. What's changed? Maybe the weather, depending upon who you talk to. But really it's the grapegrowing and the wine making. Loire Cabernet Franc is now more selectively picked (with green
harvesting in August eliminating unlikely-to-fully-ripen grapes), a
willingness to harvest later despite the threat of autumn rains and,
above all, superior winemaking. Lesser barrels are eliminated. Fresher,
cleaner flavors are emphasized. Not least, growers are isolating and
bottling superior single-vineyard sites. All of these elements have combined to make Loire Valley Cabernet
Franc one of the world's most underrated—and undervalued—red wines. Will this change? Hard to say. It is true that Loire Valley Cab Franc
shows far better with food than on its own in a clinical, food-bereft
tasting lineup. That's a structural problem that's hard to skirt. But for those of us who enjoy our wines—and assess them—with a meal,
then Loire Valley Cabernet Franc deserves attention. The number of
high-performing producers keeps increasing and they are spread across
numerous districts such as Saumur, Chinon, Bourgueil, Anjou and nearly a
dozen others. Many of them are small and only spottily distributed,
often by adventurous small local importers looking for good deals. For example, I bought a lovely Cab Franc from Domaine des Forges for $16 a bottle; another favorite of mine has been Domaine Guion
in Bourgueil, as well as Domaine Fabrice Gasnier in Chinon. There are
hundreds of producers to choose from, with new discoveries seemingly
appearing every year. You can't beat the prices, as most Loire Cabernet Francs are
downright cheap. And the quality is surging higher with every good
vintage. So those are my three candidates for 2015. Your nominations are welcome. I can think of quite a few other
contenders such as South African wines, Chardonnay from Ontario and
Gamay from British Columbia, yet other districts in Australia or New
Zealand and up-and-comers such as Hungary or even England. And on and
on. I look forward to your thoughts.
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